Food & Fragrance

Tourism is a major industry in Egypt; home of the Pyramids. It is such a dominant force in the economy that Egypt has national Tourism Police who guard sites, tourists and hotels. Despite the drop in revenue as a consequence of political violence, tourism remains a significant contributor to Egypt's economy and the premier source of its foreign exchange earnings.

The majority of visitors to Egypt, almost 61 percent, come from Western and Southern Europe. Tourists from other parts of the Middle East, especially from the Arab Gulf region, account for 19 percent of the total number, while Americans and Eastern Europeans each represent 6 percent of the total, and Asian visitors make up 5 percent.

Part of the reason for the low numbers of Americans may be the difficulty in getting there. My flights to Egypt are regularly 20-24 hour affairs with multiple legs. The shortest routings I have found are through London or New York. No matter how you slice it though, its a long time to sit in economy class. Fortunately, the carriers are almost always foreign (British or Egypt Air) and wine is therefore usually available for free to spice up the meals.

Given the role of tourism in the economy, Egypt is a unique place where Arab culture and a service industry catering to Western visitors mix in unique ways. In no other Middle Eastern country have I haggled with Arab street vendors over unwritten prices in English. Drivers get kickbacks for dropping tourists off at start or end-points co-located with various tourism businesses, so you are inevitably "invited" to visit a papyrus-making shop or a perfume maker on every trip you take. Even hotel cars will drop you at prearranged pick-up points for carriage rides and shops whose vendors will follow you down the street to get your business.

The perfume shops are especially interesting. They are all the same, pitching their version of knock-offs of designer brands. They shamelessly sell them this way too. "This perfume is the same as ......" They have decidedly Egyptian names like Secrets of Egypt, Essence of Eucalyptus, Siwa Oasis with extract from 52 flowers, Lotus Flower, as well as frankincense and myrrh. Of course, they try to sell you 4 bottles for price of 3....

Despite the badgering and haggling, the experience has its own charms. Carriage rides amongst the Pyramids, smelling spices in the shadow of a camel, and eating roasted pigeon in a fine hotel restaurant are just a few of them. As a classic example of the fusion that is Egypt, some of the best Italian food I've ever had is served inside the Marriott hotel I use, which used to be a royal Egyptian palace. It is place to visit with a pocket full of cash, infinite patience, your best negotiating skills, and a tolerance for people trying to take your money at every turn.